Rating:
Ron Zacapa Centenario
www.ronzacapacentenario.com

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Ron Zacapa Centenario is a legend amongst rums. According to many sources, it’s won so many tasting competitions that it’s actually been retired as a contender, and is instead used by the judges to calibrate their palettes as to what a truly fine aged rum can achieve. With such a lofty reputation, I was quite excited to finally try a bottle.

Centenario stands out on the shelves. The bottle is entirely wrapped in palm leaves – intriguing, but it does conceal the rum within. Upon opening the bottle, I was disappointed to note it was a plastic screwcap. And even worse, it had a non-removable plastic diffuser that one may expect from mixers, but certainly not from a 23 year aged rum with such a sterling reputation. (new bottles of Centenario seem to have a new, more sophisticated packaging.) [read more »]

Rating:
Cockspur 12 year
www.cockspurrum.com

In the glass, Cockspur 12 year is remarkably cool across the nose, and smells of ripe bananas and caramel. These factors, combined with its light amber color, make for an inviting, un intimidating first sip. On the tongue you’re instantly met with a surprisingly light yet peppery kick. Almost a pulled punch, it’s just enough to get your attention, but not enough to hurt anyone. The flavor is light and alcoholly, but not mediciny. It holds just enough musk to be interesting, yet remains crisp and smooth. Subsequent sips continue in this vein, and go down all too easily. Even when consumed at a measured pace, this rum goes quickly to your head. Combine this with its extreme sipability and it’s a clear recipe for trouble.

A decent rum, and a relatively gentle one. Somewhat on the shallow end, but – like many shallow things – good for an occasional fling when you’re feeling frisky yet noncommittal.

Rating:
Rhum Barbancourt 15 year
www.barbancourt.net

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Amber rums are tricky beasts. Light rums are so often weak and hollow (although there are exceptions.) Dark rums are often – for better or worse – brutal and in-you-face. Amber rums, though, run the gamut. By most appearances they are unintimidating. But sometimes this benign appearance conceals a soul of fire. And so it is with Rhum Barbancourt 15 Year.

I tried the Barbancourt 8 Year some time back, as it was actually recommended over the 15 Year by respectable sites like The Ministry of Rum. As it turns out, I wasn’t overly impressed (I should have known better – since when should you listen to someone respectable when it comes to rum?) Eventually, on the recommendation of a few loyal readers, I opted to give the Barbancourt 15 Year a try at long last. [read more »]

Rating:
Cockspur Fine Rum
www.cockspurrum.com/

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Nothing makes my day like getting to try a new rum – and this goes double when the rum in question is from Barbados. Some of my very favorites come from this island, the fabled birthplace of rum itself. It’s my understanding that Cockspur is only now entering the U.S. Market, and I count myself fortunate to be able to get a sneak peak at their offerings so soon.

Upon first opening Cockspur Fine Rum, the first item of note was the rubber cork – something I’d not yet witnessed in the world of rums. Over the past several years, the wine industry has been experimenting with solutions to a growing cork problem – namely that natural cork is expensive, unreliable, prone to drying, and can lead to a ruined bottle now and then. Some wines have chosen to solve the matter with a practical – but classless – screw cap. Other wines have tried a more innovative approach – the rubber cork. This method effectively compensates for the shortcomings of natural cork, while still maintaining much of the tradition and ambiance that comes with properly opening a bottle of wine. [read more »]

Rating:
Cane Amber
www.neworleansrum.com

Earlier this summer I had the great pleasure of visiting a rum distillary in New Orleans – and it was during this visit that I first experienced their premium rum (indeed, the first time I’ve experienced any of their rums) while overlooking a warehouse full of hundreds of rum barrels. Truly, this alone makes the experience worthwhile, and if you’re ever in a position to see the rum process firsthand I highly recommend it.

Cane Amber is unlike any rum I’ve ever tasted – indeed, it’s rather unlike rum entirely. Were I to try it in a blind taste-test, I’m certain I’d have it pegged for scotch. Fortunately, I rather like a scotch now and then. Unfortunately, I’m not nearly well-versed enough in the world of scotches to review it on these grounds. [read more »]

Rating:
Mount Gay Extra Old Rum
www.mountgay.com

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An opulent panorama of exquisite aromas and ambidextrous luminosity. Or something like that. I’ve not mastered the english language enough to write one of those fancy sounding reviews. But if I had, this rum would deserve a lion’s share of 50 cent words and phrases. [read more »]

Rating:
Pyrat Cask 23
www.pyratrum.com

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Note - in the years since writing this review, I’ve received many reports from readers that Pyrat Cask 23′s quality has declined. What small tastes I’ve had of more recent bottles appears to back up this observation, although I’m not yet certain. -Bilge

Presentation isn’t everything, but it’s a lot, and nobody knows this like the makers of Pyrat Cask 23. They start with a hand-blown glass bottle, fill it with their finest mix of select rums, seal it with a cork, and label it with some antique-looking stickers (not brown colored stickers, but stickers that used to be white and new and look like they’ve been aged for decades.) Then they hang yellow ribbons from the bottleneck, along with a medallion of the god of bartenders. And lastly, the whole affair is placed in a gorgeous cedar chest. I tell you, when you first open this bottle of rum you feel like you’ve just raided a spanish galleon (and when you look at the price tag, you might wish you had.) [read more »]

Rating:
Coronation Khukri XXX Rum
www.khukrirum.com

Rum generally conjures images of the Caribbean, of warm climates and fat lazy galleons. Rarely does one think of rum and envision the chilly mountains of the Himalayas. But Khukri Rum defies many expectations, from its uniquely shaped bottle (formed specifically after a knife designed for decapitation) to its surprisingly complex range of flavors.

To the nose, Khukri smells of sweet caramel toffee and cinnamon. It’s still clearly rum, but candied rum, perhaps. The flavor itself is light and sweet at first, and just a bit spicy. But as it warms along the tongue it seems to grow heavier, with a fuller, more robust and creamy sensation, evoking vanilla and syrup.

Khukri Rum hasn’t been available in the United States for very long, and last I heard only had limited distribution in New York and California. Hopefully it will become more readily available soon, as this rum will surely prove a very special treat for rum enthusiasts everywhere.

Rating:
Dogfish Head Brown Honey Rum
www.dogfish.com

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Upon spying Dogfish Head Brown Honey Rum on the shelf, my mind was aflutter with thoughts. First was the bottle – namely that I’d never seen it before. Next I observed that it had a waxed cork and hand-dated label with a batch and bottle number – all good signs. And last I noticed the stuff is made in Delaware (hooray for another continental U.S. rum distillery – we need more!)

Dogfish Head boasts being twice distilled, hand crafted, settled in American Oak, and mixed with Wildflower Honey. It’s this last feature that truly stands out – both in theory, and certainly in taste. To the nose, honey is definitely the over-riding quality, with the more common smells of a golden rum hidden beneath. On the tongue the standard rum characteristics are more dominant, although somewhat smoothed over – it tastes sharp but feels gentle, especially as it goes down the throat. [read more »]

Rating:
Flor de Caña 12 Year Centenario
www.flordecana.com/

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When opening what I expect to be a premium rum, I’m always a bit dissappointed should I discover a screw-cap. It seems a base and classless finishing touch on a product in which I hope the manufacturers would take a great deal of pride. Of course, sometimes I’m pleasantly surprised by the rum, making me think my aversion to screwcaps is groundless and petty. But all too often, as in the case of Flor de Caña Centenario, I find a rum that is lacking. [read more »]