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I know it still has it’s fans, and I wouldn’t dream of trying to talk them out of their enjoyment. But to me, Pyrat rums seem a few years past their time. Somewhere a while back they changed their formula – the beloved Pyrat XO went from a fine rum to merely decent, the infamous Pyrat Cask 23 fell from extraordinary to – again – decent. And Pyrat Pistol? I never had the chance to try it before the change, but today it doesn’t strike me as something you need to seek out.

Pyrate Pistol tastes virtually identical to its sibling XO – plenty of citrus with a tiny touch of musk. But the finish is more bitter than is XO, and even while still on the tongue it carries just a bit of harshness. Basically a slightly inferior rum to XO, but without the significantly cheaper price tag to make it all add up. XO these days can be had in many markets for a song, so if lightweight citrusy rum is your cup of grog, that’s where I’d stick.

I recently came across a bottle of the old XO – it was tucked in a corner of my rum collection, and had just enough content for one single glass. I also had a bottle of the new XO nearby, and thought it high time to do a side-by-side taste test. Now, bear in mind the my old XO had first been opened a few years ago, although it’s been tightly corked and stored in a decent environment, so I’m hoping this factor hasn’t skewed the results overly. Also, it’s important to remember that rum can vary from batch to batch, and therefore some differences might be noticed even without an overt change in formula. All that considered, on with the comparison…

In the glass, both rums are golden amber. The new XO is a bit brighter, while the old has a more subdued brown undertone – sort of like the difference between apple juice and cider, but not quite as extreme. To the nose new XO is light and sharp, with a cool, citrusy aroma. Old XO is warmer and muskier. It’s still citrusy, but also has a distinctive hint of rich caramel.

Upon sipping, new XO is sharp and tingly across the tongue. The texture is buttery, and the flavor sugary and very akin to oranges. Old XO, in contrast, is much less tingly and somewhat more refined. As it warms across the tongue it thickens, and carries the flavors of toffee and butterscotch, again with a hint of orange.

When compared side-by-side, there is a notable difference between the two, and I feel the old XO is clearly the superior product. Its musk and toffee effect make for a richer and more complex rum, while the new XO is light and shallow by comparison – almost candy-like. For some this sharp sweetness might be a plus, but I have to consider it a definite step down from what Planters Gold XO Reserve once offered.

Note: Pyrat rum has two other (primary) rums in its family – Pyrat Pistol and Cask 23. Unfortunately I am unlikely to ever perform a similar test with these rums. My bottle of Cask 23 is long empty, and my single bottle of the old Pyrat Pistol remains (and WILL remain) unopened. However, I have heard mumblings and grumblings that both of these rums – like XO – aren’t what they used to be. Readers and drinkers will have to decide for themselves.

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Note - in the years since writing this review, I’ve received many reports from readers that Pyrat Cask 23′s quality has declined. What small tastes I’ve had of more recent bottles appears to back up this observation, although I’m not yet certain. -Bilge

Presentation isn’t everything, but it’s a lot, and nobody knows this like the makers of Pyrat Cask 23. They start with a hand-blown glass bottle, fill it with their finest mix of select rums, seal it with a cork, and label it with some antique-looking stickers (not brown colored stickers, but stickers that used to be white and new and look like they’ve been aged for decades.) Then they hang yellow ribbons from the bottleneck, along with a medallion of the god of bartenders. And lastly, the whole affair is placed in a gorgeous cedar chest. I tell you, when you first open this bottle of rum you feel like you’ve just raided a spanish galleon (and when you look at the price tag, you might wish you had.)

OK, so aside from the glorious presentation, how’s the rum? It’s in every way as unique as the packaging. Sweeter than most, and by no small means. This is about the only non-flavored rum I’ve ever had (with the exception of Pyrat XO, a more affordable rum by the same folks) where the sweetness actually outperforms the “rumminess,” leaving a product that’s both familiar yet completely new. Sweet, fruity, and musky, this rum is at once bottled decadence and relaxation.

Truly top-shelf rums are often like mid-shelf, only more refined. But Cask 23 is a different beast altogether. It truly chills the spine with each sip, and is a rum worthy of profound respect.

note: This review pertains to the “old” Pyrat Cask 23. Before investing in a bottle, please check out my Pyrat Rum XO Side-by-Side Taste Test.

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A reader recently informed me that he had the chance to try Pyrat XO and Pyat Cask 23 side-by-side, and forwarded me his own thoughts. He’s a chef, so pay attention:

On the heels of yet another failed romance (women are the bunk!) I find myself cracking open my coveted cask 23, and comparing it to the standby…XO

The difference is dramatic, and not just by price. The color is light tan v. robust amber for the 23. The nose is most telling…the 23 is very single malt-like, and then sniffing the XO, brings it to Dewars-like proportions. I obviously cannot afford, nor find the resources to keep a full bilge of cask 23 but should a pirate come across such a bounty…pillage dear lad. The 23 is a bounty worth posessing. The XO is still by FAR the best tasting rum I have found for the $$, and recently have found it at the local bottle shop for a mere $18/bottle. I will stock up, as sailing season is fast approaching.

fair winds captain! Arrgh!!

Chef Theo Petron

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Whatever you may say about Pyrat Rums, one thing is certain – nobody presents their product better. Whether you’ve acquired their top-of-the-line Cask 23, or if you’ve selected their more affordable XO Reserve, in either case you get a glorious handblown bottle – complete with cork, ribbons, and a medallion of Hoti (the god of bartenders.) This is how rum was meant to be packaged, and I’ve yet to find another that comes even close.

I haven’t had the opportunity to taste Cask 23 and XO Reserve side-by-side, but it strikes me that they’re extremely similar (excepting, of course, the phenominal price difference.) Like Cask 23, XO Reserve smells sweet and musky. When drinking it neat, it has a slight heaviness as it tingles across the tongue. But it’s on the rocks that this rum truly blooms, transforming the subdued heaviness into a sharper, almost citrusy sensation.

If you’re a fan of rum&cokes, Pyrat XO Reserve might be a nice trade-up for you. When served on ice, its sweetness is very reminiscent of rum&cokes, but more complex and “grown up.”

note: This review pertains to the “old” Pyrat XO. Please check out my Pyrat Rum XO Side-by-Side Taste Test.